Ventless Fire Places: What you Need to Know

Ventless fireplaces provide a convenient, low-cost alternative to traditional fireplace options, but they aren’t trouble-free.

Types of ventless fireplaces
Ventless fireplaces are typically freestanding units that don't require or feature a flue or chimney to exhaust combustion air to the outdoors, making them relatively easy to install in any room. 

Those fueled by natural gas or propane can be positioned anywhere that a supply line can be installed—usually against a wall or inside an existing masonry fireplace. The latest models also feature automatic ignition, a function that eliminates the need for an outside electrical circuit to spark the pilot light—a handy feature should the electricity ever go out.

Gel-fueled units are even more versatile, as they're completely self-contained (not tethered to a supply line) and light with a match. Electric units need only a 120-volt outlet nearby, and a dedicated circuit isn't necessary.

What does “ventless” mean?
Ventless fireplaces fueled by gas or propane rely on indoor air for combustion, and they exhaust a low level of their combustion gases into the room in which they're located. A chimney or flue isn't necessary.

The risk to your health is a long-standing and on-going debate. Proponents suggest that any emissions are negligible, and well within indoor air quality guidelines as set by various regulatory agencies.

Essentially, these products must meet the general requirements for all combustible heating appliances established in the 2002 version of the National Fire Protection Association’s standards that require ventless fireplaces to have factory-installed carbon monoxide monitors and oxygen detection safety devices (ODS). These safety devices automatically shut off the fireplace if the carbon monoxide level in the room rises above 25 parts per million, and/or the oxygen level falls below 18%--levels for indoor air quality suggested (but not standardized or regulated) by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

Critics, however, claim that such monitors are unreliable and imprecise, allowing oxygen and carbon monoxide levels to fluctuate out of range before the units shut down, resulting in potential health hazards. The state of California completely bans these products, citing concern for occupant safety and health.

Ventless fireplaces that use gel canisters or electricity, meanwhile, are above that fray, as they don't emit anything other than a low amount of heat.

Any ventless fireplace is generally suggested for supplemental space heating and perhaps aesthetics alone. Those with automatic ignition or that use gel fuel can supply a low level of room heat for short spans of time and during power outages, when electricity isn’t available.

Installation and maintenance
Ventless fireplaces that are connected to a gas or propane line require professional installation by a gas or plumbing contractor, and shouldn't have a heating capacity that exceeds the appropriate room size recommended by the manufacturer.

Despite their relative ease of installation, and regardless of fuel source, ventless fireplaces aren't a turn-them-on-and-forget option. All units require at least annual cleaning of the log set and other exposed components, while gas and propane products should also have their oxygen and carbon monoxide monitors checked and adjusted annually for optimum performance.

Although suppliers may tout the integrity of factory-installed carbon monoxide monitors, installing a hard-wired, independent carbon monoxide monitor in the room in which the fireplace is located is a smart second tier of safety. Expect to pay $100-$200 for an hour of an electrician’s time and the monitor.

Costs
Gas- or propane-connected ventless fireplaces usually include a factory-finished enclosure and/or mantle. With professional installation, they cost $2,000-$6,000. Installation may not require a building permit, but check with your local building department to confirm if there are any regulations or limits on the use of a ventless fireplace.

Gel-powered ventless fireplaces generally cost less, $300-$700, and don't require professional installation and associated costs. Some assembly by the purchaser may be required, including the placement of factory-supplied logs in front of the gel canisters. The fuel comes in 13-ounce canisters that cost about $3 and last about 2.5 hours each. They are sold in cases of 24 for about $80 or $110 for a dozen, 30-ounce refill bottles.

Electric fireplaces also are standalone, self-contained, and factory-finished, requiring no installation other than removing them from the box and plugging them into a wall socket. They cost about $1,000 and up, depending on the sophistication of the mantel and surround. Suppliers claim these products produce a realistic flame effect created by randomly filtered lighting, but judge for yourself at a retailer before you buy.

Choosing the correct size
It’s important to size a ventless fireplace for the size of its room. A large, open space, such as a great room, should handle a ventless gas/propane fireplace with a 25,000 BTU or higher output, akin to the heat output from a sealed and vented gas fireplace.

For smaller rooms, such as a bedroom or bathroom, ventless gas- or propane-fueled fireplaces can be sized down to 5,000 BTUs. For optimum control over heat output, these units can be regulated by a wall thermostat or remote control.

Gel-powered units can output up to 9,000 BTUs. Electric fireplaces, like space heaters, provide very localized output—at most, 4,500 BTUs—but will remain working as long as they are plugged in and switched on.

Regardless, ventless fireplaces of any kind and size are nearly 100% efficient, as very little of the heat they emit escapes the room. By contrast, an open-faced, wood-burning fireplace with a chimney may lose 85% or more of its heat output through the flue.

I have a ventless fireplace and absolutely love it!  I also have a chimney expert in case you'd like to discuss your options -- let me know how I can help.

Gas Fireplace Inserts: Pros & Cons

Gas Fireplace Inserts:  Pros & Cons.  Last time we talked about taking care of your traditional wood-burning fireplace & chimney.  Today, let's talk a little about gas inserts.  So many new homes come with them now & many older homes are retro-fitting their wood-burning fireplace to a gas insert because of the many advantages.  Read on to decide which option is right for you.

Unlike old decorative gas fireplaces, today’s gas inserts are heat-producing dynamos that use natural gas or propane to power a steady flame dancing on fake logs, decorative modern glass chips, or stones behind a sealed glass face.

Gas inserts are available as vented units or unvented units.

• Direct-vent units are safest. They draw in outside air to keep the flame burning and exhaust all the combustion gases and water vapor released by burning gas. 

• Ventless inserts have a higher efficiency rating (92% to 99% vs. 60% to 80% for direct-vent inserts) because no heat escapes up the chimney. But the exhaust fumes and moisture released from burning gas stay in your house, which may be a cause for concern.

Most ventless gas fireplace inserts are considered safe for homeowners because they include an oxygen-depletion sensor that turns gas off before carbon monoxide reaches dangerous levels in the room. Nevertheless, some states don’t allow ventless gas units.

Check your local building codes regarding the types of fireplace inserts allowed in your area.

Capacity and cost of inserts
A gas-burning fireplace insert heats 1,000 to 3,000 square feet, depending on its size. Talk to your insert dealer about the size of your existing fireplace and what heating capacity you can expect from an insert.

Inserts cost $3,000 to $4,000, including installation and a chimney liner.

Upsides to a gas fireplace insert

• Gas fireplace inserts can be used in masonry or prefab fireplaces; they can be vented through the existing chimney (or a wall for a free-standing unit).

• Gas inserts require little maintenance beyond an annual $75 to $125 checkup. Its best application is for zone heating—turning up the gas in the room you’re in and lowering the thermostat in the rest of your house.

• There’s a definite green factor--they burn with a 65% to 99% efficiency rating, which means very little pollution or smoke.

• There’s no ash or creosote produced with a gas-burning unit.

On the downside

• Propane is an expensive heating fuel—you won’t save money heating your whole house with a gas insert.

• You’ll spend more on gas or propane than you would on wood or pellets to produce the same amount of heat.

• A gas insert burns fossil fuel, so it doesn’t qualify for the 30% tax credit available for inserts that burn biomass, such as wood or pellets.

So, what do you think?  I admit that I love the romance of a real, crackling fire, but hate the work in keeping it lit & cleaning afterward.  I have a ventless gas fireplace & love it on those cold nights.  I haven't had any problems with moisture or fumes.  I only turn the pilot on when I'm going to light the logs, rather than leave it going all the time.  At some point I plan to update so I can turn both the pilot & logs on with just the flick of a switch. 

What type of fireplace do you have?  Which type do you like best?

CARING FOR YOUR CHIMNEY- Wood Burning Fireplaces

As the days get shorter, nights get longer & cool weather sets in, what is more inviting than a warm fire?  Be sure yours is safe.  If you have a wood-burning fireplace, here are some tips.  If you are not sure of the condition of yours, I can recommend an expert who will be happy to inspect & make recommendations

Annual inspections keep flames burning right
Creosote—combustible, tar-like droplets—is a natural byproduct of burning wood. The more wood you burn, the wetter or greener the wood, and the more often you restrict airflow by keeping your fireplace doors closed or your damper barely open, the more creosote is produced.
Soot build-up, while not flammable, can hamper venting. One half-inch of soot can restrict airflow 17% in a masonry chimney and 30% in a factory-built unit, according to the CSIA. Soot is also aggressively acidic and can damage the inside of your chimney.
The more creosote and soot, the more likely you are to see signs of chimney fire—loud popping, dense smoke, or even flames shooting out the top of your chimney into the sky. Chimney fires damage the structure of your chimney and can provide a route for the fire to jump to the frame of your house.
"If the chimney is properly maintained, you'll never have a chimney fire," says Ashley Eldridge, the education director of the CSIA.
The best way to ensure your chimney isn't an oil slick waiting to ignite? Get it inspected.

Three inspection levels let you choose what you need

A level-one inspection includes a visual check of the fireplace and chimney without any special equipment or climbing up on the roof. The inspector comes to your house with a flashlight, looks for damage, obstructions, creosote build-up, and soot, and tells you if you need a sweep. If so, he'll grab his brushes, extension poles, and vacuum, and do it on the spot.
"You should have it inspected every year to determine if it needs to be swept. An annual inspection will also cover you if the neighbor's children have thrown a basketball in it, or a bird has built a nest," says Eldridge.
A level one typically runs about $125. Add a sweep, and you're talking another $80, or about $205 for both services, according to CSIA.

Consider a level-two inspection if you've experienced a dramatic weather event, like a tornado or hurricane; if you've made a major change to your fireplace; or bought a new house. This includes a level-one investigation, plus the inspector's time to visit the roof, attic, and crawl space in search of disrepair. It concludes with a sweep, if necessary, and information on what repair is needed. The price will depend on the situation.

A level three inspection is considered "destructive and intrusive" and can resemble a demolition job. It may involve tearing down and rebuilding walls and your chimney, and is usually done after a chimney fire. The cost will depend on the situation.

Small steps can improve your fireplace's efficiency
Besides the annual sweep, improve your fireplace's functioning with responsible use.

• Only burn dry, cured wood—logs that have been split, stacked, and dried for eight to 12 months. Cover your log pile on top, but leave the sides open for air flow. Hardwoods such as hickory, white oak, beech, sugar maple, and white ash burn longest, though dry firewood is more important than the species. Less dense woods like spruce or white pine burn well if sufficiently dry, but you'll need to add more wood to your fire more often, according to CSIA. 
• Wood, only wood! Crates, lumber, construction scraps, painted wood, or other treated wood releases chemicals into your home, compromising your air quality. Log starters are fine for getting your fire going, but they burn very hot; generally only use one at a time. 
• Close your damper when not using the fireplace to prevent warm indoor air—and the dollars you're spending to heat it—from rushing up the chimney. 
• On a factory-built, prefab wood-burning fireplace, keep bifold glass doors open when burning a fire to allow heat to get into the room. 
• Have a chimney cap installed to prevent objects, rain, and snow from falling into your chimney and to reduce downdrafts. The caps have side vents so smoke escapes. A chimney sweep usually provides and can install a stainless steel cap, which is better than a galvanized metal one available at most home improvement retailers because it won't rust, says Anthony Drago, manager of Ashleigh's Hearth and Home in Poughkeepsie, N.Y. 
• Replace a poorly sealing damper to prevent heat loss. "You can get a top-mounted damper that functions as a rain cap, too, an improvement over the traditional damper because it provides a tighter closure," says CSIA's Eldridge.
• Install carbon monoxide detectors and smoke detectors in your house—near the fireplace as well as in bedroom areas.
• If you burn more than three cords of wood annually, get your chimney cleaned twice a year. A cord is 4-feet high, by 4-feet wide, by 8-feet long, or the amount that would fill two full-size pick-up trucks.
• To burn fire safely, build it slowly, adding more wood as it heats and keeping your damper completely open to increase draw in the early stages. Burn the fire hot, at least occasionally—with the damper all the way open to help prevent smoke from lingering the fireplace and creosote from developing. 

By the way, fireplaces aren't officially rated for energy efficiency because they're so varied. Depending on the source of information, they can be 10% to 30% efficient in converting fuel to heat.
No inspection will turn a masonry or factory-built fireplace into a furnace, but it can improve efficiency somewhat, decrease the amount of heating dollars you're sending up the chimney, and increase your enjoyment of your hearth time by reducing smoke. If a sweeping prevents a chimney fire, you're talking about the difference between another ordinary January day, and the potential loss of your home, or even life.

Next posting:  Caring for your gas log fireplace.  Contact me if you would like information now.

FUN FACTS - CARY, NC

My realtor buddies & I have been setting out on neighborhood tours so that we can learn more about our area.  I’ve always been interested in how towns & areas develop as they do.  I hope you will find my adventures interesting, too!

Let’s talk today about Cary, NC.  Located almost entirely in Wake County (with some outer areas in Chatham County) Cary was the 5^th fastest growing municipality in the US between 2006-2007 according to the US Census Bureau.  Cary is located in the Piedmont and Triangle areas of North Carolina.  I’ll have more on those areas in future blogs. 

Cary began around 1750 as a settlement called Bradford’s Ordinary.  This was the name of the first business in Cary – an inn & tavern run by the colorful John Bradford.  Back in those days, a tavern was called an ordinary.  As with so much of our country, about 100 years later the railroad arrived and Bradford’s Ordinary became an important link in the line between New Bern and Hillsborough.  In 1771, this area became part of the new Wake County, named for Royal Governor William Tryon’s wife, Margaret Wake Tryon.

Allison Francis “Frank” Page is credited with founding the town.  Page was a Wake County farmer & lumberman.  He and his wife, Catherine “Kate” Raboteau Page bought 300 acres surrounding the railroad junction in 1854 and named it Cary after Samuel Fenton Cary, a former Ohio congressman and prohibitionist that he admired.  Mr. Page disapproved of cursing, dancing, card-playing and most of all, drinking.  Interesting -- the town was first named after a tavern and then switched to honor a prohibitionist.  All that clean living gave him plenty of time to get busy!  He became a railroad agent and town developer.  He laid out the first streets in Cary and built a sawmill, general store, and post office (of which he became the first Postmaster).  In 1868, Page built a hotel to serve railroad passengers coming through Cary.  This hotel is now known at the Page-Walker Arts & History Center.  It was built in the Second Empire style & JR Walker later bought it, which is how it received its current name.  The railroad continued to grow and expand and so did Cary.

Did you know that Cary was the site of the first PUD in North Carolina?  What is a PUD, you ask?  It is a Planned Unit Development that lays out an entire community including shopping, schools, residences, etc. before construction begins.  In 1971, a 967-acre area was developed on the Pine State Dairy Farm and called Kildaire Farms.  One section of Kildaire Farms was named Farmington Woods in honor of the farm’s history.  We toured Kildaire Farms & I’ll have more information on the history & background of that neighborhood in a future blog. 

Recent history shows Cary to be consistently rated as one of the best places to live in the US.  Great schools & higher education, proximity to wonderful cultural events, low property taxes, lots of recreation and so much more make this a great place to live. 

Would you like more information?  Thinking of moving to Cary?  Let me know how I can help – I’m your Real Estate Resource. 

Like me on Facebook to see pictures of my adventures & what I uncover in my travels.

What's Going on with Credit & Loan Rates?

Good morning, North Carolina Real Estate Fans!  Today's topic is what is going on with credit scores and loan rates.  I am well aware that I cannot delve into all the details of this very complex issue, so I'll give the topline.

Credit scores:  Many of my clients have been pleasantly surprised to find out that "blips" on their credit score can be fixed relatively easily.  Some have cancelled all their credit cards believing that will up their score.  Actually, in some cases the opposite may be true -- getting and using carefully & wisely a simple credit card may increase your score.  Having one late medical bill or collection call can drop your score 100 points.  I recommend you speak with a mortgage specialist to see how you may qualify.  Let me know if you would like a recommendation.  I have several very knowledgable & experienced experts who would be glad to speak with you at no charge.  Rents continue to climb & housing prices are at historic lows.  Is now the time for you to buy?  Why not find out?

If you've been watching the news, you've been hearing that the fallout from our government debt situation will most likely result in interest rates rising.  We all knew these historic rates will not last forever.  Currently you can get a 30 year fixed rate of 4.25%.  There are also other programs that are even lower -- a 15-year fixed at 3.75% and a 3.00% ARM.  Amazing!  You can lock in these low rates today while you continue your home search.  Ask me about it.

Thanks for stopping by!  Please share your opinion or ask any questions you would like me or my experts to answer for you.

Hello, North Carolina Real Estate Fans!

I've been collecting great information on real estate in Apex, Cary, Morrisville, Raleigh, Durham, Morrisville, Holly Springs, Pittsboro and all the surrounding Triangle towns.  Now, it's time for me to share this information with you.  Despite the "doom & gloom" heard on TV & in the news, there are a lot of positive things happening here in our area.  We are consistently listed as one of the best places to live by CNN, Money, US News, Forbes and other respected sources.  And there is a good reason for that -- we are!  Quality of life, things to do, health resources, education, weather, great home prices, and a touch of southern charm has endeared this place to our hearts. 

I will be posting news, events, mortgage info, happenings, and lots of great information as it becomes available and I look forward to being your real estate resource!
Elizabeth Scott
Realtor/Broker
Coldwell Banker Advantage
www.advantagecb.com/escott